Sibley’s Guide to: Provence
Provence is famous for its art, architecture, landscape, and markets. This region of France also has a spectacular rail system, making day trips a breeze, even if you don’t have access to a car!
Avignon has been my preferred home base while wandering throughout Provence. A fortified city, for a time the seat of the Catholic papacy, Avignon also contains more than enough historical, architectural, artistic, & Provincial charm to be a stand alone travel destination.
Things to do in Avignon
Palais des Papes
The heart of Avignon, this fortified palace demands your attention from nearly every viewpoint within the city walls. Commissioned in the 13th century, while Avignon was the seat of the Catholic Papacy and granted UNESCO World Heritage status in the 1990’s, you can now tour some of the rooms in the defensive palace and admire its views of the city below.
Jardin des Doms
The Dom’s gardens were converted into a public park in the 19th century. Enjoy a relaxing stroll complete with fountains, ponds, grottos, and terraces with views over the Rhone and the town.
Notre Dame des Doms
Palais des Papes slightly older counterpart, the fortified cathedral was built in the 12th century. The cathedral suffered damage during the French Revolution and was abandoned, not to be reconsecrated and restored until 1840. The iconic gilded statue of the Virgin Mother Mary was added in the 19th century.
Pont d’Avignon
A short ten minute walk from the Palais des Papes is the Pont d’Avignon. What's left of the medieval bridge juts out halfway across the Rhone offering beautiful views of the river and the city behind you.
Les Halles d’Avignon
If your dreams of Provence mainly revolve around markets & food then this is the place for you! Les Halles is a permanent food market in Avignon, elegantly decorated with a vertical garden in 2006. Peruse 40 stalls worth of local produce, cheese, meat, and bread in search of the makings for your perfect charcuterie blend. Enjoy your specially curated picnic on the banks of the Rhone, in the shade of the city wall, on La Place du Palais, or in the Jardin des Doms.
Day Trips from Avignon
by train or car
Tarascon & Beaucaire
It is easy to find yourself delightfully lost wandering Beaucaire’s charming streets, shadowed by the Chateau de Beaucaire: a fortress dating back to the 11th century. You can visit the castle Wednesday through Saturday to inspect the imposing structure more closely. They even offer an escape room inside the castle’s chapel and tower!
A stone's throw across the river from Beaucaire sits Tarascon. Tarascon’s own fortress dates back to the 15th century and is extremely well preserved. My favorite things about this castle are the original medieval ceilings, the moat you must cross to get to the main courtyard, and the panoramic view of the Rhone over the parapets and gargoyles atop the castle. Graffiti left by prisoners while the castle acted as a prison from the mid 1700’s to the not so distant 1920’s represents how the castle has acted as a living diary over time. The castle often hosts artist’s exhibitions throughout the larger and otherwise empty rooms, a stunning juxtaposition of modern art and medieval architecture.
Steps from the chateau you’ll find the Romanesque-Gothic Church of Saint Martha of Tarascon. Here you can learn more about the legend of the Tarascon Monster and how it was defeated!
Getting there:
Hop on a train from Gare d’Avignon Centre to Tarascon-sur-Rhone. The journey takes around 15 minutes and costs about 10 Euros roundtrip. If you prefer to drive plan for a 25 minute journey each way. You can find free parking at the Chateau.
Orange
For a taste of Ancient Roman history in the heart of the French countryside, pay a visit to Orange. The Theatre Antique d’Orange is considered one of the best preserved Ancient Roman theaters in the world, and also stands as a rather impressive museum. Also in Orange you will find remnants of Roman temples and Orange’s very own Arc de Triomphe.
Getting there:
Hop on a train from Gare d’Avignon Centre to Orange. The journey takes around 20 minutes and costs about 15 Euros roundtrip. If you prefer to drive you should plan for a 30 minute journey each way and around 4 Euros of tolls. You can find free parking near the Arch de Triomphe or paid parking near the Theatre d’Orange.
L’isle-sur-la-Sorgue
As its name suggests, this town is framed by the Sorgue river. On a stroll through this delightful town every turn meets you with a new whimsical view of bridges and waterwheels. For those seeking a unique souvenir from their time in Provence, this is the perfect destination as this town is known for its antique stores. To see the town in full swing visit on a Thursday or Sunday as these are market days. On market days, stalls seem to fill up nearly every street in town; and there is a constant buzz of locals and tourists alike admiring the baubles for sale.
Getting there:
Hop on a train from Gare d’Avignon Centre to L’isle-sur-la-Sorgue. The journey takes around 25 minutes and costs about 12 Euros roundtrip. If you prefer to drive you should plan for a 35 minute journey each way. You can find free parking just outside of town here or paid parking nearer to the hustle & bustle here.
Saint-Remy-de-Provence
Saint-Remy is a dream destination for anyone who loves Van Gogh. Here you can walk the landscapes and be transported into an impressionist’s fantasy. The city has done a beautiful job of honoring Vincent’s time in this region. You can tour the Monastery Saint-Paul de Mausole, where Van Gogh lived and painted for a time. Parts of the monastery still act as a psychiatric facility. If you want to see the monastery’s lavender field in full bloom plan your trip for June or July. Visit this charming town on a Wednesday for an opportunity to stroll what was my personal favorite of all the markets I perused while in Provence.
Getting there:
Hop on a bus (line 707) at Routiere PEM Avignon to Saint-Remy-de-Provence. The journey takes around one hour and costs about 5 Euros roundtrip. The Saint-Remy bus stop is right in the middle of town, steps away from the major square (& market if you make the trip on a Wednesday morning). If you prefer to drive, you should plan for a 30 minute journey each way. You can find free parking in town or near the monastery.
Want help planning your dream getaway to Provence? Get in touch with me here!
Top Hotel Pick
How to do La Mirande justice in merely a few sentences? Impossible, but I’ll give it a shot. Everything about a stay at this luxury 5-star hotel makes you feel like royalty (it is a literal palace after all). Steps from the Palais des Papes, you simply cannot be in a more prime location. Think it can’t possibly get any better? La Mirande also offers Michelin Star dining. A stay at La Mirande truly is an experience unto itself. Read more about the hotels rich design & history here.
Image courtesy of La Mirande, Avignon
